Croatia Sailing Trip 2023
Published 12:44 on 4 Oct 2023
Weather reports in the weeks leading up to our September trip indicated possible stormy and changeable conditions. However, when it came to it, our arrival happened to coincide with a period of calm, balmy weather and while a bit of lively wind would have been entertaining. we passed a lovely week in warm, largely settled weather. Magnificently led by our skippers Steve, Robyn, Helen and Nigel.
Marina Baotic, in Trogir was the jumping off point for our four boats. Crew arrived into the usual chaos of a busy marina on changeover day. Prodigious amounts of beer bounced along the pontoons in borrowed shopping trolleys, a sure sign of a good contingent of Brits and Germans, plus of course .. the Corinthians.
We started our trip in good style at one of several eateries researched weeks in advance and booked for us by our resident Croatian, Anita, who probably should have been wearing a "Tour Rep" T-shirt. Good food, and two wine choices made things simple and time was spent getting to know new crew and cabinmates.
We set off on our first day's sail the next day, a relatively short hop to Milna on the island of Brac. A good opportunity for getting to know the boats and their idiosyncrasies. After berthing, there were no complaints at all (much) when it was discovered our destined taverna was a 30 minute walk. It gave us all the time to soak up the Croatian harbour atmosphere after all. Finally arriving, some gasping for a beverage, we were proffered a fresh fish selection by the kilo by our friendly host. Some were adventurous in entering into negotiations, others slightly lost the will to live, and settled for the quicker off menu option.
Day 2 saw some do a flyby of Hvar Town to spot the superyachts followed by a pitstop for lunch anchoring in a picturesque bay on Palmizana. From there we headed on to Vela Luka on the island of Korcula, eating in a delightfully boisterous restaurant on a second floor terrace. A rambunctious skippers/first mates meeting reminded our lead skipper Steve, that possibly it's wisest to discuss passage planning pre rather than post a spot of thirst quenching but obviously not as much fun.
The following morning we set off for our next spot, Uvala Stoncica, Vis. As with other days, we jumped at the chance to whip those sails out when winds would allow. Along the way a couple of boats anchored off Budikovac island, and the intrepid crew from one boat swam ashore, rambled over the other side of the tiny island drawn by the sound of heavy beats, discovering a fabulous little beach bar, . very much "Ibiza vibes".
On arriving in Vis, two boats were lucky enough to blag a mooring buoy, the others got to practice their shoreline mooring skills. In fact, one boat thought this was so much fun that they would have a go at it 3 times and then decide that, upon reflection, there was a much more exclusive spot on the other side of the bay, nowhere near anyone else and it would all definitely work much better over there. Records for the longest ever mooring up may have broken. All boats got to practice their dinghying skills to and from that night's hostelry, where we were attended to by our lovely waiter whose proudest moment, he told us, was an appearance in Mamma Mia 2, filmed in Vis.
The next day on Maslinica, Solta many of us spent a good while eyeballing the superyacht Valiente arriving a couple of berths down with its smart crew and elderly client (or skipper who knew?) surveying the scene. We thought perhaps the questionable music from next door prompted her swift departure but the word on the marina was that she was told to leave, apparently being without the correct papers. We didn't laugh. The Croatians seem to love their paperwork, ships papers must be handed in at every marina just have to remember to pick them up in the morning (as one boat discovered).
Our final night before returning to base was spent rafting up the four boats on two buoys in a beautiful circular bay in Uvala Lucice, Brac. A great night was had using up boat supplies!
The inevitable dilemma arose the next day. Where to refuel. Debates were lengthy, some chose to return straight to Trogir, others chose to sit it out in a snaking queue at Rogac but were rewarded with a great final afternoon sail into Trogir and, it turns out, a much cheaper fuel bill!
Our final night started with a game of find the restaurant without Google Maps, and having wended our way through the maze of alleyways of Old Town Trogir we pitched up at a marvellous restaurant with the most hospitable waitstaff who by the time we said goodbye were treating "Stevie" like a favourite cousin.
A fabulous trip, with so much effort put in by the organisers. Thanks must go to Steve, Anita, Robyn, Helen and Nigel whose efforts made it such a marvellous trip and as ever to Cassie and Berenice.
Written By: Julia Thurston
Photo Credits: Steven Gear-Evans, Jane Robinson, Sarah Sparks, Chris WI
Last updated 13:06 on 4 October 2023